SOM TAM JAY SO

One of Mark Wiens‘ favorite eateries in Bangkok, Som Tam Jay So (ร้านส้มตำเจ๊โส), an iconic street food spot that offers some of the most authentic and flavorful Isaan cuisine in the city. Known for its mouth-watering papaya salad (som tam) and a variety of other Northeastern Thai dishes, this small, unassuming spot has won the hearts of locals, expats, and food enthusiasts alike, including Mark Wiens, a renowned food vlogger and blogger.

Som Tam Jay So was established by a woman named “Jay So,” whose passion for cooking led her to start her own small food stall in the Silom area. Hailing from the Isaan region herself, Jay So wanted to bring the flavors of her hometown to Bangkok, sharing her family’s traditional recipes with the city. With little more than a few simple tables and chairs on the sidewalk, she began serving freshly made som tam, grilled meats, and other Isaan dishes, quickly earning a reputation for her culinary skills. In Thai, the word “เจ๊” (Jay) is often used to refer to a middle-aged woman who runs a food stall or a small business, while “โส” (So) is her nickname.

In the early days, Som Tam Jay So was a modest street-side eatery known mainly to locals who lived or worked in the Silom area. However, as people began to discover the incredible flavors and authentic taste of Jay So’s cooking, word spread quickly. It wasn’t long before the stall became a well-known spot for some of the best Som Tam in Bangkok due to Jay So’s commitment to preserving traditional cooking techniques and flavors.

By using fresh ingredients, homemade seasoning, and authentic methods, she ensured that every dish stayed true to its Isaan roots. This dedication to quality resonated with customers and set her apart from other vendors in the area.

As the eatery gained more attention, it started attracting food bloggers, vloggers, and local celebrities, helping it reach a wider audience. One of the pivotal moments in the restaurant’s history was when prominent food personalities, such as Mark Wiens, discovered and recommended it to their followers. This exposure elevated Som Tam Jay So to must-visit status among food enthusiasts, both in Thailand and internationally.

Som Tam Jay So is famous for its wide variety of som tam dishes, offering different versions with varying levels of spiciness and ingredients, such as the traditional som tam Thai (sweet and spicy with peanuts), som tam pla ra (fermented fish sauce), som tam pu plara (with fermented crab), and som tam khai kem (with salted egg). Each dish is made fresh to order, ensuring a perfectly balanced blend of sweet, sour, salty, and spicy flavors.

Apart from som tam, the restaurant also serves a range of other Isaan favorites like larb (spicy minced meat salad), nam tok (grilled meat salad), grilled chicken (kai yang), and sticky rice (khao niao), making it a great spot to experience a complete Isaan meal.

Insider tips!

• Be prepared for spicy food! If you’re not used to the spice, it’s a good idea to ask for a milder version of the dishes.

• It’s a cash-only spot, so make sure to have some Thai baht on hand.

• Arrive early if possible, as it tends to get crowded, especially during lunchtime.

We first ordered some Sticky Rice (Khao Niao). This staple of Isaan cuisine complements every dish and is essential for enjoying the spicy salads and grilled meats. The sticky rice got served alongside a spicy dipping sauce.

As it was our first time, and you could clearly tell that we were farangs (foreigners), the staff served us the sticky rice nicely. However, as it was quite busy, we saw locals grabbing their own bamboo cup of sticky rice out of a big rice steamer to help themselves and to lessen the staff’s workload which was nice to see.

Sweet sticky rice is different from normal sticky rice, the former is mostly used for desserts as the normal sticky rice is eaten with savory dishes.

After a 20-25 min. wait, we got our Som Tam Thai (Papaya Salad) which is the star of the show at Som Tam Jay So, and Mark Wiens highly recommends it, added with fresh shrimp.

A combination of flavors that hits all the right notes: spicy, tangy, salty, and slightly sweet. The green papaya is shredded finely, providing a crisp, refreshing crunch with every bite. The shrimp is plump, fresh, and cooked just right, adding a burst of savory goodness that elevates the entire dish. The use of lime juice, fish sauce, chili, and palm sugar creates an intensely flavorful dressing that coats every strand of papaya.

True to Isaan style, this som tam packs a punch in terms of spice, but you can always ask them to adjust the spiciness to your preference. If you’re not used to spicy food, it’s wise to request a milder version, but for those who love a good kick, the combination of chili with the fresh shrimp creates an addictive, fiery sensation that keeps you coming back for more.

Up next, we ordered the Tam Tok Moo (Grilled Pork Salad). This dish is also quintessential Isaan favorite, combining slices of grilled pork with fresh herbs, spices, and a tangy dressing.

The flavor profile of Tam Tok Moo is incredibly well-balanced. The grilled pork is marinated and cooked to perfection, with a smoky, charred edge that enhances the overall taste. The dressing is a lively mix of lime juice, fish sauce, ground roasted rice, and chili flakes, giving the salad a vibrant combination of tangy, salty, and spicy flavors. The freshness of mint leaves, sliced onions, and chopped cilantro adds an aromatic quality that complements the savory pork, making each bite bright and flavorful.

As with most dishes at Som Tam Jay So, the Tam Tok Moo leans toward the spicier side. The spice from the chili flakes is assertive but not overwhelming, and it builds gradually, complementing the sour and savory dressing.

Another favorite of Mark Wiens is the Grilled Chicken (Kai Yang) at Som Tam Jay So so we had to try it as well!

The Grilled Chicken (Kai Yang) at Som Tam Jay So is also a great example of how simplicity and mastery of technique can transform a classic dish into something truly exceptional. You get two grilled marinated chicken wings on a stick.

The kai yang at Som Tam Jay So is marinated to perfection, absorbing a delightful blend of herbs, garlic, coriander root, fish sauce, and spices. This marinade infuses the chicken with a deep, savory flavor that permeates each bite. When grilled over charcoal, the chicken develops a slightly smoky, charred exterior while retaining a juicy, tender interior. The combination of smokiness, subtle sweetness, and savory notes makes this grilled chicken incredibly flavorful without being overly salty or greasy. Really tasty!

The setting is simple, unpretentious, and typical of a street-side eatery, with plastic tables and chairs spilling out onto the sidewalk. It’s a no-frills experience, but the focus here is definitely on the food. Because of its popularity, the place can get quite busy during peak hours, but the quick service ensures that you won’t have to wait too long to dig into your meal.

Despite being one of the most famous street food spots in the area, Som Tam Jay So offers very reasonable prices with dishes ranging from ฿100–200, making it an excellent choice for a budget-friendly, delicious meal.

Som Tam Jay So is conveniently located in Soi Phiphat, just a short walk from the Chong Nonsi BTS station. Its central location makes it easily accessible for those exploring the Silom area.

For anyone inspired by Mark Wiens’ food adventures, Som Tam Jay So is a must-visit. It offers a quintessential Bangkok street food experience, delivering some of the best som tam and Isaan dishes in the city. Whether you’re a seasoned lover of Thai cuisine or looking to experience authentic flavors for the first time, this eatery will not disappoint. Mark’s genuine enthusiasm for the food at Som Tam Jay So is a testament to its status as a Bangkok street food legend. You can find his visit to the place here!

SOM TAM JAY SO

Monday – 11:00-17:30

Tuesday – 11:00-17:30

Wednesday – 11:00-17:30

Thursday – 11:00-17:30

Friday – 11:00-17:30

Saturday – 11:00-17:30

Sunday – closed